Last night, my last two customers came in for a nightcap. The woman enjoyed a glass of white wine, the man had a gin and tonic. The wine disappeared as if there was an invisible straw in the glass, but the gin and tonic hung on for a while. Being a gentleman, the offer was extended for her to have some of the gin. "Oh, no...I hate gin. I only drink vodka."
That sentence is said far too much these days. Sure, there seems to be a growing backlash against the flavorless spirit, but take a look at the vodka selection the next time you're at your local liquor store. The choices of flavored vodka ( bubblegum vodka, really?) keep growing and perish the thought you drink a vodka that's not triple distilled. I even had a liquor rep push the latest vodka by touting it was distilled twelve times! Twelve! Perhaps I'm a cynic, but you can't polish something that won't shine!
What exactly has caused the unfounded hatred of gin? A bad experience when you were a kid? Too much gin in high school or college? Is it the combinations of botanicals? Do you just like the flavor of the mixer more than anything else? (I can't buy that. Try a gin gimlet over the summer instead of a vodka gimlet. It's not even close)
Despite popular belief, gin is of Dutch origin. There's some debate over who created it, but it was originally made as a cure for stomach ailments. The base of it was juniper oil which was far too bitter for taste. The juniper oil was added to a neutral spirit and a basic gin was created.
Genever, the original gin, is far different than the English style gin we know. Genever is a fermented malt wine which is then distilled with juniper. The juniper flavor is minor, and the gin seems closer to whiskey than the gin we grew up with. Although there are a few cocktails out there with genever, you'll be served a nice pour of "dutch courage" right up to the rim of the glassware in Amsterdam and maybe a beer back for your troubles.
Genever was mutated by the English after the Brits fell in love with the spirit while trying to take over the world. There seemed to be a perfect storm taking place. Just as genever reached the British shore, English farmers were suffering from an over abundance of grain and the prices were falling as a result. To save the farmers (and his throne), King William III passed legislation which made it legal for anyone to distill alcohol as long as it was done with British grain.
In 18th century England, gin swept through the country. Beer was taxed at an unbelievably high rate, drinking water was unsanitary and unheard of, tea had not yet made its way from the Far East, and gin was simply cheap. One in five houses was dedicated to gin production in London. (To mask the poor quality of these gins, sugar was added and known as Old Tom). Living conditions were horrific in the slums, and people sought relief in gin. It is believed that every man, woman and yes, even child, drank more than a pint per week in early 1700s London!
Many acts of legislation were passed in an attempt to suppress the gin craze. None made a difference until 1750 when the "tippling act" took hold. This law closed the gin houses and only allowed large distilleries to produce gin. As a result, gin became too expensive for the poor and led to it being the drink of choice of the upper class and beer became the choice of the lower class as it was more affordable. Naturally, when the upper class fell in love with gin the quality improved. Distilling techniques were perfected and such companies with popular names as Tanqueray, Gordon's, and Beefeaters started producing a drier more aromatic version of gin that is still produced today.
Of course, gin made its was to the States. In the late 1800's, both Genever and Old Tom were still popular. Jerry Thomas, the first person to write down and share cocktail recipes, even had cocktails which called for Old Tom and Genever. Eventually, the young country's tastes turned to a drier cocktail and Old Tom and Genever slowly disappeared. Throw in the the 18th Ammendment and the sweeter, maltier styles were done.
Through the years, gin has survived. Legislation, prohibition, Sex in the City (Cosmos!!!! Noooooo!!) all threatened to make gin an afterthought. Thankfully, the cocktail resurgence has brought gin back. There are new companies popping up around the US making quality gins. Personally, I love Bluecoat and Aviation.
So, next time you find yourself looking for something to drink at your favorite watering hole, think gin if you're going clear. There's a world of flavor there for you and not just a drink of cranberry or soda. Me? I'm going to have myself a Bijou.
Cheers.
